Monday, 20 March 2017

Trouser troubles


Well Sewists. I need your help.
Sewing skirts and dresses is something I can do well, but pants (trousers) I have only sewn very lose culotte styles in the past. I am determined to get a slim fitting pant pattern that I can use as a base. I really liked the look of Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014 #129. (I sewed 38 at the waist to 40 at the hip and leg. I added 1.5cm SA, but ended up sewing the allowance at 1cm)
This is a pattern drafted for fabric with some stretch. I made my draft in a cotton twill with absoluetly no stretch at all. The muslin is almost identical in measurement to a pair of jeans I have that fit, but are snug. But Denim has a bit more give!
I'm certain if I had made these in a fabric with stretch they would be wearable, but I'd like a pattern that fits really well and I need your advice to help get the best draft from this starting point.
I'm sure there are those of you out there who sew trousers a lot and could offer some advice to help me adjust the pattern for non stretch fabric.

So, what are the issues? (those I can Identify)
Too tight in the lower thigh, just above my knee.

Too tight in the butt.

Too Tight over the calf.

Side seam pulling backwards and gaping pockets

I think there might be some Crotch issues as well, but some of those might resolve with the width issues.

Question is - do I just add at the side seams/ inseam? or do I need to do some slash and spread of the pattern - if so where?

I'd really appreciate it if you could offer any insight to help me resolve this.


  1. Where to start? These are really not well proportioned for your shape. I would say that in addition to the seat being too tight, the crotch curve appears to be wrong as well. I would say you need to both go up a size on the backside and perhaps even elongate the back crotch curve to make room for your booty. This doesn't mean you have a big butt -- your butt is just fine -- but the Burda crotch curve does not appear to flatter you.

    Might I suggest trying a different patterns? Simplicity makes a truly great pattern series aimed at getting a good fit called Amazing Fit. They are great especially for pants. They provide detailed instructions on measuring to select a size and three different back pieces with different crotch curves and volume to customize your fit. Everyone I have suggested them too has liked them and walked away with both a better understanding of fitting pants and good fitting pants to prove it!

    1. Thank you Lynn. I'll certainly have a look at the simplicity patterns. I thought there might be issues with the crotch curve, but was struggling to even get these up, due to the width issues in the thigh. I think my next step is to draft a block. Now where is my "Metric pattern cutting for women"?

  2. Hi Claire! I'm visiting from Rhonda's Creative Life. I see you've made a Cambie Dress, which is so cute by the way. Have you thought about trying Sewaholic Thurlow Trousers? I'm just doing a muslin for a pair now and they have a unique fitting option; the back seam can be adjusted after the waistband is on. That being said, it's all about the right pattern for your body type...I just think you might be a good fit with Sewaholic.


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