Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Trousers Toile Take Two

So after the horror that was my first attempt at fitted trousers, I decided to draft my own. I used metric pattern cutting for women's wear by Aldrich.

I compared my measurements with the size charts. My hips are two sizes bigger than my waist. So I just used my own measurements rather than going from the chart. I used the instructions for the close fitting trousers and jeans (please excuse the foreshortenting on the photos, my legs are not this short).

The first attempt was better, but I'd sewn wrong sides together and ended up with some seams inside out. There were still some issues.

The fit at the front was better, but the sides at the hip were too big and the waist at the back was also too big. Not to mention the large amount of excess fabric in the back. Initially I pinched out a wedge under the butt, but decided to look at the crotch curve first.

I scooped out more room, both on the front and the back, using some trousers that fit me well as a template. The fit seems to be more comfortable.

You can see that there is still some fabric under the butt and the back waistband is too low.
You can also see that my calf is quite extended this is causing some of the issues in the back.
The waist is still a bit big, which means the front is slipping down a little, which doesn't help the front crotch line.

I pinned out the excess under the butt and folded this out of the pattern.

I also pinned out the vertical excess in the back thigh and transferred this to my pattern, keeping the calf at the original width.

I slimmed the side seams just a little and think I need to draft a curved waistband to accommodate the large difference between my hip and waist and my swayback.

You can see some of my adjustments here.  My draft is getting closer to the silhouette that I'm after, but I'm still not there yet. I think I need a pants fitting book to help with the fine tuning. Looking at getting 'Pants for real people', what do you think about this book?

Ready to make the next toile, think I might make a wide leg draft too - when I've got this one sorted.

1 comment:

  1. Wow. Just wow. You can see the difference the adjustments make - such a clever thing to do, not sure I'd have the patience. Thanks for sharing with #PoCoLo


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